By Arpana Gulati
It was in December 2018 that I visited the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan over Christmas break—and a lovely one at that! The picturesque drives through endless desert sands, interspersed with tall and rocky mountains with hues of red sandstone, and the setting sun in the background are memories that stayed with me. The landscape changes at every location and there is a lot to savor; the Dead Sea, the castles, Petra (Rose City), Jerash, the city of Amman and its citadel. To top it all off, winter in Jordan is crisp with clear blue skies, gorgeous sunlight, and cold nights; it’s a lovely time for tourists.
Getting there
Queen Alia International Airport is Jordan’s main and largest airport located in Amman, the capital city. We had hired a private car with a chauffeur throughout our week’s stay. One can even hire a car and self-drive. Public transportation is simply not reliable and the frequency is rather poor; so it’s best to avoid. The people of Jordan are very warm, friendly, and helpful. It was good to see the secular spirit in Jordan; though 90% of population is Muslim, Christmas was being celebrated with full gusto.
Sightseeing in Amman
We based ourselves in Amman for the initial part of our trip. We visited the Citadel and the amphitheater, which are historic sites in downtown Amman. While the site is historical and adds value to tourists about the influence of civilizations in Jordan, the Citadel offers the best postcard views of Amman as well. One must see the rather interesting Archeological museum inside the Citadel and the Folklore museum, housed inside the Amphitheatre. If you are adventurous, climb up the stairs of the Amphitheatre; it’s quite a trek up and down!
Amman is a modern city with consistent white stone used in most buildings — possibly due to the desert heat or possibly a desire by the royals to see uniformity. We stayed at the Hotel Ayass. If you want to get some tasty food and find some activities in the city, Rainbow Street is the place, as it houses a number of restaurants. A few that we tried were Sufra and Fakhr el-Din. Both had delicious, lip-smacking food. Their cuisine has a wide choice for non-vegetarians as well as vegetarians; mansaf, falafel, kebabs, hummus, and baba ganoush are some that one must taste.
We went to the Eastern desert and visited the Al Kharranah Castle, Amra Castle (A UNESCO World Heritage site) and Al Azraq Castle where Lawrence of Arabia resided and wrote part of his book ‘Seven Pillars of Wisdom.’ These desert castles are now completely uninhabited but at one time were possibly used as guest houses by travelers. The beautiful desert landscapes on the way took our breath away!
Jerash
The following day was a trip to Jerash, which is the site of ruins of the Greco-Roman city of Gerasa — one of the largest and most significant in the world. We also visited Ajloun castle, a fine example of Islamic architecture, and the haunting hilltop Castle of Shobak, with its dramatic vistas. These sites are a photographer and historian’s paradise.
Petra
The next day, we journeyed to Petra. On the way, we visited Madaba, which is the mosaic city best known for its famous 6th century Mosaic Map of Jerusalem and Holy Land. We also visited a factory outlet: a foundation of Queen Rania, where the mosaic work and local arts and crafts of Jordan are promoted. It includes impressive work from not just the artisans of Jordan, but made by the people of Syria as well. This is the perfect place to score some memorable souvenirs.
We then headed to Mt. Nebo. Mt. Nebo holds a lot of historical significance. It is mentioned in the Bible as the place where Moses was granted a view of the Promised Land, which he would never enter. It is also one of the best sites in Jordan to get a 360-degree view of the lay of the land, and even neighboring countries, on a clear day.
Next was the highlight of our trip – Petra at Wadi Musa. We stayed at the Old Village Resort. We experienced Petra by night – spectacularly lit up with Bedouin music playing. In the morning again, we headed to the Nabatean Rose city, one of the Seven Wonders of the World! Entered through the Siq – almost a 1 km narrow gorge flanked by high cliffs. The guides are very knowledgeable and it makes sense to go along with one and learn about the history of this outstanding city.
The one prominent site that took our breath away and transported us into the world of ‘Indiana Jones’ was the first sight of the ‘Treasury.’ Words fall short to describe the beauty of Petra (just make sure you are not touring during rains due to flash floods). A must-visit at night in Petra is the Cave Bar – a 2,000 year old cave converted into a bar!
Wadi Rum desert
The following day, we visited the famous Wadi Rum desert, where many Hollywood films have been shot including Lawrence of Arabia and Martian. We had an extremely enjoyable two-hour Jeep ride in the desert, driven by a Bedouin. He happened to be one of the most cordial people we met on the whole trip. Later in the day, we stopped by Aqaba along the shores of the Red Sea. Aqaba has lovely sandy beaches and known for its coral reefs. One can see Egypt and Israel on the other side.
Dead Sea
Our final destination — and very well deserved after all the sightseeing — was the Dead Sea. The Dead Sea is the lowest point on the Earth, below sea level. It is a storehouse of minerals and salts. Almost 25% of its content is salt; so avoid dipping your face in it and certainly keep your eyes safe! For this part of the trip, we stayed at the Hilton at the Dead Sea. The hotel staff helped us apply the Dead Sea mud pack on our entire bodies. We enjoyed floating in the sea; it’s an experience you can’t find anywhere else in the world!
Anything else?
One thing worth noting is that while Jordan is surrounded by troubled neighbors, which might make one apprehensive about visiting, it’s a very peaceful country with exceptionally warm and welcoming people. My 12-year old child had a great time digging deep into the history and archeological sites of this impressive nation. He enjoyed chatting with the guides at the various sites and got a lot of information about Jordanian culture and the history of the region. He loved photographing all the stunning landscapes and archeological sites. We definitely had a wonderful time spending a week visiting this miraculous nation.
