by Theresa Chan Evanoff
Our family of 5 (kids aged 7, 6 and 4) just came back from a wonderful week in Luang Prabang, Laos. When I was searching for information, there wasn’t much around, so I thought I would pay it forward and share all our experiences and tips for those who are also planning a similar trip.
Our Itinerary:
We spent 8 days in Luang Prabang alone. It was a bit much and you can probably get by with 5, but we took it easy most of the time. Looking back, we might consider splitting that with a couple days in Vientiane.
Where We Stayed:
We decided to do something mid-range ($50 USD/night) and stayed at the Muangthong Boutique Hotel. It was walking distance to the night market and with good breakfast options and had a pool, which worked for us when enjoying a relaxed afternoon or morning. The staff was friendly and the rooms were clean. It was difficult to find a hotel that would let the 5 of us stay in one room, as many others wanted us to book 2 rooms even though they weren’t always adjoining. But here we had 2 double beds and a foldable bed which worked for us. Alternatively, there are both high-end hotels and lower-cost guesthouses that I’m sure would be great too to fit whatever budget you have. Something to note is that any hotels/villas in the UNESCO protected area don’t have pools in case that’s what you’re after.
Favorite Activities:
We rented a van for the full day for 250,000 LAK and went to Kuang Si Falls, Kuang Si Butterfly Park, and Laos Buffalo Dairy Farm, all in one day.
- Kuang Si Falls is great and a must see. It’s quite touristy so we’d recommend going earlier in the day. You can swim in various parts of the falls, but if you hike all the way up, there are smaller pools that the kids can comfortably swim in. The hike to the top is a bit steep and slippery on a wet day (like on the day we went), but our 4 year old managed without much difficulty. There are food options just outside the park entrance but it might be nice to pack a picnic too.
- Free the Bear Rescue Centre is just inside the entrance of Kuang Si Falls, and you can’t miss it if you go. They have several rescued bears from hunters and poachers. It’s free but you can purchase souvenirs as a donation.
- Kuang Si Butterfly Park is about 300m from the falls and run by a Dutch couple who moved there a few years ago. There is a lovely butterfly enclosure with little fish ponds for the “fish spa.”
- Laos Buffalo Dairy was an awesome find! They make cheese and ice cream on location and everything is delicious, especially the caprese salad and ricotta donuts! There is a little ice cream stand by the side of the road so you don’t miss it. On the farm, you can do a tour where the kids can feed the pigs, rabbits, buffalos and also milk and wash the buffalos. The kids had so much fun, we went back a second time!
- Keo Falls: This little gem was a small piece of paradise! The falls are equally beautiful as Kuang Si but far less touristy as it seems like no one knows about it. There is a beautiful patch of grass and a “restaurant” that sets up picnic mats and serves delicious local food and drinks. The pools are perfect for swimming for kids, and they even have inner tubes and swings there.
- Morning Alms Giving: This is a traditional and respected ritual, so observe with reverence and avoid the vendors trying to sell offerings to exploit this, unless it is really meaningful for you to participate. It’s an early start (5:30-6am), but quite amazing to see long lines of saffron-robed monks. It starts outside of the big temples, and near the National Museum.
- In town, check out: Gaverek Storytelling Theatre (my 4 year old was a bit bored, but good for the older ones), Big Brother Mouse (try to go earlier in your trip to pick up books for local villagers and also make time to practice English with the locals), Night Market, Daytime Market, Royal Museum, and UXO Museum (sobering but eye-opening).
Where to Eat:
- Joma Cafe: We had breakfast here almost every day! It was a nice little bakery that was close to our hotel, but they also have another location on the Nam Khan River which was also lovely.
- 3 Nagas: This was the best local meal we had here! It’s on the upscale end of things, but a beautiful setting and delicious food (even a kid’s menu).
- Secret Pizza: This is about 10 minutes outside the centre of town, and set in the owner’s garden. It’s only open 2 nights a week and has great wood-fired pizzas!
- La Silapa: A little known pizza place with great local food, so good for the whole family!
Transportation:
Around town, tuk tuks should be around 15-30k LAK. A private car for the day should be between 200k-250k LAK, though drivers will start off much higher!
Tips:
- If you require a visa on arrival, try to apply beforehand as the queue is long and chaotic. Bring a passport photo and enough cash to pay on the spot.
- Get used to negotiating. It’s a bit exhausting, but everything from transport to shopping at the market can be negotiated, often by 50%! (Of course we are happy to support the local economy and still knowingly pay a premium, but don’t want to get ripped off!)
- There is something for every budget, so you can travel as inexpensively or as luxuriously as you would like.
- Make sure you are modestly dressed (shoulders and legs covered) when visiting temples, including the National Museum.
- Learning to say thank-you (khap-jai) and hello (sabaidee) goes a long way!
I hope our experiences and tips help you plan a great vacation to Laos with your family! We had a wonderful time exploring Luang Prabang with our children and exposing them to the culture and new surroundings.