by Chia Chan
Come Winter, families who like to ski start to flock to popular skiing destinations like Whiteface Mountain if you live near New York, Keystone Colorado, or to the Alps in Switzerland. But if your family has a propensity toward nature and offbeat traveling, you may want to try cross country skiing (also known as Nordic skiing). For this adventure, one place to consider is Maine Huts & Trails in Carrabasset Valley, Maine.
Main Huts & Trails
Maine Huts & Trails is a non-profit organization. Their mission is to create and operate a world-class system of backcountry trails and eco-lodges for people-powered recreation to enhance the economy, communities, and environment of Maine’s Western Mountain region, for the benefit of current and future generations. They own 4 huts (Flagstaff, Poplar, Grand Fall, and Stratton Huts) that are off the grid and offer 80 miles of trails. About 45 miles of these trails are groomed for cross country skiing in the winter.
Accomodations
Depending on which hut you want to stay at, you will want to park your car at different trailheads. We decided to stay at Flagstaff Hut because it seems to be the most kid-friendly as the distance for us to hike or ski to the hut from the trailhead (Long Falls Dam Rd. Trailhead) was just a little over 2 miles of flat walk, which is especially nice for families with young kids. It was our first time cross country skiing and my kids, ages 7 and 10, had no problem at all with the trails.
Getting There
We rented our ski equipment at the Sugarloaf Outdoor Center and spent a few hours practicing cross country skiing before going on the Maine Huts & Trails. Looking back, I think we would have been fine without the practice. As it was our first time cross country skiing, we considered taking lessons offered at the Sugarloaf Outdoor Center. But due to timing reasons, we didn’t take the lessons. Still, the kids were fine because they had watched YouTube videos on how to cross country ski a few days before our trip.
To preserve the country feel of the place, guests are not allowed to drive to the huts. So, to get to Flagstaff Hut, we drove to the Long Falls Dam Rd trailhead, where we parked our car.
Since we did not want to backpack our belongings to the hut, we had arranged for the Hut’s gear shuttle to pick up our bags from the trailhead. We simply dropped off our backpacks at a gear drop-off shed located at the trailhead. It is important to note that suitcases are not allowed, only backpacks with a maximum weight limit of 25 lbs. After dropping off our backpacks, we skied to the Hut. It took us about 1.5 hrs to get to the Hut. If you have younger kids, it may take you 2 hours but it shouldn’t be more than that.
The Huts
The “Hut” is actually not just one hut. Flagstaff Hut, where we stayed, has one main hut where guests gather for dining, chatting, and relaxing. The main hut has a great room with a fireplace, a cozy reading area, and a breezy screened-in porch. The hot showers, toilets, gear drying rooms, and kitchen are all located in the main hut. The sleeping quarters are located in separate huts, just a few steps from the main huts. The huts were modeled after European huts, so guests stay in shared bunkrooms with a variety of bunk configurations. Since we came as a family of 4, we had our own private sleeping quarter with 4 beds. It is important to note that guests bring their own sleeping bags as bedding is not provided.
Off-The-Grid
What I really like about taking this off-the-beaten-track vacation was that we were completely offline the entire time. Guests are not allowed to charge their phone at the hut to conserve energy. There are no TVs and no computers – just the hut, nature, and the other guests.
At some point, you will end up talking to the other guests. There were surprisingly many families staying at the huts. My kids learned how to play new card games from other children there. Meals are arranged by tables. So although you will sit with your family, there will be new people to speak with as well.
Aside from the trails, there is the Flagstaff Lake. We were able to walk on the frozen lake and marvel at the beauty of nature, away from the sounds of cars and buses.
The huts are well-built and maintained. They are sponsored by outdoor retailers like LLBean and companies like New Balance. Since we stayed at the hut during the December holidays, it was a full-service stay. This meant that breakfast, packed lunch, and dinner was included. During off-season (late March-June, Nov-early Dec), there are no meals provided and no gear shuttles available. So guests are on their own for all food and gear needs, making the rates much lower.
Skiing
My kids enjoyed skiing the most. As for me, I really appreciated the clean air and the quiet time for reflection while I was hiking in the snow. Believe it or not, I also appreciated the clean, modern composting toilets. There is literally no smell in the bathroom after each use.
In the evening after dinner, guests can take a tour of the hut to learn about the latest off-the-grid technology which the hut utilizes. And of course, I appreciated the full-service which meant no cooking and cleaning for me. The food was very good – hearty and healthy is how I would describe it, using local ingredients when possible. The staff working at the hut were all very family friendly. Several of the staff had worked for Camp Chewonki, which runs educational programs with an environmental focus for kids.
For me, I felt good about the trip not only because it was fun and relaxing, but also because I feel good about supporting businesses that promote nature preservation.
At a Glance
Pros: Nice way to get away from it all and get some country air. The huts are more upscale compared to cabins in camping grounds or some of the cabins in the AMC (Appalachian Mountain Club).
Cons: Sleeping Hut can smell a bit musty. But airing it out during the day helps.
Tips: Don’t use Carriage Road to get to the Long Falls Dam Road. It is very dangerous, as the road is narrow. We were told later on by others that sometimes log truckers drive on this road and there is simply not enough space on the road for two cars heading in opposite directions. Also, Carriage Road is often not paved in the winter. Make sure to read all materials provided to you by Maine Huts & Trails if you are going to go there for your next outdoor adventure!
Recommended for: Families that like the outdoors
